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Hd 95 Mod Msh 04l: The Best SoundCloud Playlists and Podcasts to Enjoy



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Hd 95 Mod Msh 04l




Along with our technical expertise, we focus on providing customers with the best availability of OEM parts for Trane and American Standard equipment, including remanufactured OEM compressors, as well as all of the ancillary parts and supplies needed to support your entire job, from start to finish.


We also supply unitary and Ameristar residential equipment, portable cooling units for homes and businesses (which include both rental and sales), and SureFit replacement coils for both Trane and other manufacturers equipment.


IKO MS Detail is a solvent-free, liquid-applied membrane coating that serves as an excellent waterproofing option for hard to flash-in areas. IKO MS Detail cures as a result of a chemical reaction with the ambient humidity and becomes a tough, monolithic waterproof membrane. This product was designed to coat and protect complex details such as flashings, mechanical equipment and roof/wall penetrations which would normally require intricate labor.


We'll try to clear up some of the confusion in choosing the right gears for your Toy, and a few parts you might need to make your gears install go smoothly. We'll mostly talk about Toyota minis and 4Runners in this article with a sprinkling of other models.


It's easy to buy a triple-drilled 27 spline pinion flange or a triple-drilled 29 spline pinion flange. You can also use a 2004 and up pinion flange out of a 4Runner as long as it fits your driveshaft since they had 29 splines from the factory.


Most Toyota trucks and 4Runners 8" diffs have 27 spline pinions. EXCEPT for the 1996-2003 4Runners. They use a 30 spline pinion. There are also 29 spline pinions in 2004 and up 4Runners and maybe some other 8" diffs.


That said, 27 spline flanges are very common since they used to be the only option. We suspect, however, that 29 spline pinions are going to be what manufacturers make in the future and that it'll get harder to find 27 spline pinion Toyota gearsets.


The Tacoma, Tundra, and T100 differentials are stronger than the earlier 8" Toyota diffs. This is due to larger carrier bearings and a larger diameter pinion shaft. However, the ring and pinion won't fit into an earlier diff and the differential itself won't fit into an earlier axle housing.


We suspect that Yukon and Sierra Gear come out of the same factory as they're both heat-treated 8620. An interesting fact about gears is that many ring and pinions all come out of the same few factories and are rebranded in the retail market. Very early on Yukons were not necessarily a great gear - they were often just a rebranded gearset from another manufacturer.


This changed sometime in maybe the mid-late 2000s and now they're pretty much the gold standard gears for Toyotas. Between the 8620 alloy and the heat treat they'll last longer and be stronger than "normal" gears with a proper break-in.


Below we've linked to the most common Toyota ring and pinions. We've included ring and pinions plus ring and pinions with a "conversion kit" that adds a pinion nut, pinion seal, and 29 spline flange.


Everybody has preferences and we all use our trucks a little differently. If you "drive it like you stole it", you will likely prefer taller gears than the fuel-conserving miser that greedily stares at his dash-mounted vacuum gauge to ensure he's not sucking down too much petrol at every green light (Roundforge is a judgment-free zone).


You can easily see that people have huge differences in opinion on what gears to run. They'll often say things like "You unquestionably need 5.29s with 35s" or "I daily drove my Toy with 4.10s and 35s for years without a problem."


We'll submit that maybe it's because context is everything. The guy daily driving in the Colorado Rockies is different from the daily driver in Florida which is different than the weekend rockcrawler in Pennsylvania which is different than the competition rig in New Mexico.


While there are definitely well-followed "recipes" to setting up our Toyotas, your truck probably still has some qualities that differentiate it from other trucks - you've got a header, you have high miles on the engine, you have a 1st Gen 4Runner with 1000 lbs of armor and gear. Plus you've got personal preferences in how your truck drives - you might not mind shifting a little more, or maybe you want to be pulling strongly on every hill in 5th gear.


The takeaway is that you should keep your own situation and preferences in mind when you're choosing gears and be cautious when anybody uses absolute terms unless you have virtually the same truck and drive it virtually the same way. You don't need to overthink your gearing, but be aware that your setup doesn't have to match someone else's just because they say so.


Below is a chart relating axle gearing, tire size, and RPM, plus the difference in RPM from "stock". Our stock setup (bolded) is 28" tall tires and 4.10 gears. All other things being equal, the green zone will give you performance similar to the "stock" setup. In the yellow zones you'll notice some changes. In the red zones, there are definitely consequences to poorly matched tires and gears. Of course, our breaks between zones are somewhat arbitrary - going from a 10% from stock difference in RPM to 11% difference probably won't be that noticeable.


It's really important that you understand that people comfortably run all sorts of gear and tire combos - they may have a rebuilt 22RE with an aggressive cam, a worn-out 22R in a heavily built pickup, or a small block Chevy pushing 4.10s and 35s. This chart is simply saying that if you currently have 28s and 4.10s, you'll get similar road performance with any combo in the green zone.


The last thing we want to point out is that to match your current performance, you'd want to run your own numbers with your current stock setup - after all, you may have gotten 4.30s and 31s from the factory. We're mostly illustrating that there are a fairly wide range of tire and gear combos that can get you where you need to be. In the future, we may build a calculator that has similar functionality to the below chart.


"High" gears are numerically low. 4.10s are on the "high" side for modified Toys. High gears with big tires give you a lower engine RPM on the highway, but may be too high to rockcrawl in a slow, controlled manner. 1st gear takeoff might involve painful lugging of the engine (similar to starting from a stop in second instead of 1st). Gas mileage will be better with high gears since you can move at faster speeds with fewer RPMs (this is not all there is to good gas mileage, of course).


"Low" gears are numerically high. 5.71s are on the "low" side for modified Toys. You'd get super fast and torquey takeoffs from a dead stop, but you'd be limited to a pretty low top speed since the engine would be running at such a high RPM. This will make it hard to do long highway distances at a reasonable speed with a reasonable engine RPM.


As an example, 4.10s are "higher" than 5.29s and are more suited for smaller tires. Thus, we'll often say that a stock gear ratio is too "high" for bigger tires and that one needs to install "lower" gears. Adding big tires has the same effect as adding higher gears to your truck. A taller tire has a larger circumference and travels further with each complete revolution.


Since big tires or high gears allow you to cover more distance with each revolution of the engine, engine RPM is lower for a given speed. The exact opposite happens with using smaller tires or lower gears.


Looking at the high gears/big tires example, we could expect terrible trail performance. At idle, you'd be moving quite quickly. At lower RPMs, you'd likely stall and slip the clutch quite a bit since your engine would be operating so far outside it's torque curve. As for the highway - well, you'd have lots of power at high speeds. At 1800 RPM the 22RE still has plenty of power on tap, but using it would probably mean that you were severely breaking the speed limit. At 3000 RPM (comfortable for highway cruising the 22RE) you'd be traveling at 124 mph.


The low gears, small tires is quite the opposite. You'll get tons of low speed torque and fast acceleration. Your Toy would feel extremely peppy and torquey and you'd be doing burnouts galore. You'd probably have trouble stalling the engine with the brakes in 4 Low. While this would be fun on the trail (maybe a little too slow without other gearing options), it would be miserable on the highway. At cruise speed on the highway the engine would be screaming and awfully close to the redline on a 22RE (this appears to vary from 5200-5800 rpm).


Ideally, when installing larger tires you'd install gears that put you at the same engine rpm as your original setup. You might not be able to do exactly that due to budget, future build plans, or something else. So following is a list of some things to think about when you need to upgrade your gears. Some of these things won't matter to you, some of them you can't change, and maybe some of them you'll decide to change after reading this. We know that building a 4x4 is often an exercise in deal-hunting and working within a budget. Here they are:


This is a pretty big one for most people since their 4x4 is often a daily driver, second car, or at least needs to get to the trailhead. Your highway cruising RPM will be your "goal" RPM. For highway cruising, you need to know:


and you run it through a gearing calculator to give you the optimum gear ratio you should be running with those tires. This number probably won't be an actual gear ratio, so you need to pick a gear ratio close to it that will suit you.


Going to be on the trail a lot? Well, for most of us the ability to move slowly in a controlled manner with lots of torque is extremely beneficial. This means having enough torque to get over obstacles at low engine RPMs without slipping the clutch. With high gears you go fast on the trail, and with low gears you go slow. 2ff7e9595c


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